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Saturday, July 13, 2013

Costume class-corset pattern from Truly Victorian

I just finished the costume for the painting class. I used a new-to-me pattern by Truly Victorian, the TVE01, Edwardian corset from 1903.

This is the second true corset I have made, and as usual I learned a lot-mostly through error! I have made a lot of 18th century stays, but they have a very different mode of construction and purpose in constricting and support for the body. I decided to use a spoon busk for the front fastening:

As the name implies, it has a spoon shaped end, and also a curve to it like a spoon when seen from the side.
This pattern had  lot of pieces, I counted 36 pieces-the outer layer of blue duchess silk satin, inner layer of antique jean twill, and inner lining of antique polished cotton.
This is my new handy tool-a magnet pin bracelet- of course Erik said "nice watch." 
 It's very handy when working with little pattern pieces .


The busk is the first sewn step. The author recommended numbering the pieces in order, and stacking them in a pile to avoid confusion. It was excellent advice. You work from the busk at front to the back grommet area.

 Here you see the bust gores inserted. This era in corsetry favored giant bosom pockets, and large hip pockets, which were padded and stuffed to make that S-curve shape.
 
 The hip gores give an exaggerated look to the body. This later evolved into girdles which went over the entire hip area. I would consider this the last real age of corsets.
Here is a peek of the inside before the lining was placed. The pattern went together quite well, and was actually pretty fun to construct until I had to put the boning channels in. I used strips of cotton and sewed them first down the center and then on each side of the center-this creates a pocket for two metal bones. This corset has 28 metal bones in it.
Here is the polished cotton, an antique fabric used for lining dresses. It has a nice satin look to is, and is thin. This keeps the boning channels and seams from rubbing on the person wearing it.
I recommend any of the patterns from Truly Victorian, I have made several different things from the line and they are all well drafted.











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