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Thursday, June 19, 2014

Father's Day shirt-Nani iro fabric and Collete Negroni pattern

I thought I really outdid myself on the crazy shirt fabric this time. Of course, my  Dad loved the fabric. I think it looks like popcorn falling on grass. It is another double gauze from Nani Iro. The fashion police ( my mom) were not convinced that this shirt could be worn out of the house.
The fabric is a sort of border print motif, the pattern is more flowery on the sides and greener in the middle.
I did my best to coordinate the pockets to somewhat match the pattern. The buttons are vintage.
We all decided that rolled up sleeves  were a  better look. My Dad later put on dark jeans with the shirt and he did have a bit of a hipster vibe going on.
This is the same shirt pattern as before for his train shirt, but I tried the long sleeve version this time. Colette pattern Negroni.

Monday, June 9, 2014

My first bra-VeraVenus pattern 1940s style brassier

Did you think I was going to show you a picture of my first bra? It was a wonder woman bra with a big W on it and patriotic colors. I really did not have any use for it, but that did not stop me from wearing it and hoping for something to happen. 
I am showing you my first finished sewing attempt at making a bra. This pattern is from VeraVenus, for an early 1940s brassiere. It is a great way to get a correct look for vintage clothing, as well as use up small bits of lovely lace and fabric.  I used a heavy antique silk satin, antique lace, and vintage bra straps.
One does not need very much lace for a project like this, and this old 1930s alencon was a very good color match as well as historical match. Using a glue stick for sewing is a lifesaver. Instead of pinning fiddly bits, you can use the glue stick around the edges and mate two things together. It washes out and dries clear.
I was drawn to the bust supports in this pattern. The pattern called for more rows, but I messed that up, and had to go with this number. These parallel lines add some extra support under the bosom. The use of underwire was not seen very often during this time period. The 1950s saw a great use of it, and the birth of the bullet bra and cathedral bra began.
The two cups are sewn and assembled before joining together. I did not do the greatest job of sewing my lines on the bust supports, but I did try.
The inside is lined in cotton net...perhaps good for structure, but a bit scratchy.  If I make this again, I will use silk or something to line it. Here you can see the vintage bra straps, as well as a reproduction back closure. I don't like this back closure, it is difficult to fasten, and will use something else next time.
I think the finished product really has that old style look, and I am pretty happy with this first attempt. The pattern maker has a lot of good information on her VeraVenus site. She is going to come out with a bullet bra as a future pattern, and that is something not to miss.

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Nani Iro double gauze fabrics...two Washi dresses

Two quick sewing projects. My favorite cotton fabric right now is Japanese double gauze. It is two thin layers of fabric that are lightly tacked together, creating a lofty, soft, and airy material. Some companies make patterns that are different on each side. This is a single patterned fabric from Nani Iro. Her designs are happy and colorful. These dresses are sewn from the indie pattern company made-by-rae. It is called a Washi dress.
 These photos are terribly rushed. The dresses are much better on a live model, but I wanted to get the aqua one mailed off to my sister.
The darker blue one is for myself, and it is so easy to wear that I may have to make another.
At first I was hesitant to sew a dress that required shirring:
After watching The Great British Sewing Bee, I decided to give it a try. They showed the participants making a 1930s shirt that used shirring, and the effect was lovely. You wind elastic thread around the bobbin by hand, and use that in place of regular thread. Your upper thread is regular thread.
Here is the back showing the elastic thread, I used red, but it comes in many colors. It was much easier than I had thought, and now I am thinking of all the ways to use it for custom fit in a dress.
Once the first row is sewn, the rest of the rows start to shrink in, and a blast of steam from the iron further sets the puckering effect.
The facings are hand tacked so they lay flat. That was perhaps the only difficult area to manage in the pattern, the opening wanted to ruffle a bit.